3 yards muslin, batiste or broadcloth
(any color)

4 and a half yards steel boning (hooping) 
*poly boning is not recommended

2 packages extra wide bias tape, or 3/4" wide twill tape in same color as material

1 package 1/2" wide twill tape OR 2 yards cotton cording for drawstring

thread to match fabric

wire cutters

masking tape OR caps for steel bones

scissors

measuring tape

sewing machine

Serger (optional)

**********

These materials should cost you under $25

For the average seamstress this project should take about 2 hours

**********

Most materials available at your local fabric store. Steel boning/hooping is available from 
Farthingales,
Amazon Drygoods
or from Sewing Studio
1-800-831-1492

If you have questions-Or would like to share pictures of your panniers made from this tutorial -Please email me at:

dawber1@earthlink.net
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

My hope for this tutorial is to teach fans how to create functional, low cost, easy panniers to accompany their hand crafted costumes. These panniers are not 100 percent historically accurate, but for those fans who wish to create their dream gown within a budget these panniers are sturdy, and shaped perfectly to accompany an 18th century, or similar style gown.

How to Construct Them:
**Please read all directions before beginning. This will make a pair of large "pocket hoops" or Panniers. The size can be modified for smaller framed individuals--These will hold out heavy gowns made of thick materials, or lots of yardage. If you are using a lightweight material you may opt for smaller panniers.

Start by cutting Two pieces of your material to measure 36" wide by 27" high (these will be piece 'A'), and then Two other pieces that measure 19" wide by 18" wide (these will be piece 'B')

The two smaller pieces ('B') you will need to modify slightly. Fold them in half width wise, and you will need to slighly trim them so that the top portion is about 2 1/2" less wide than the bottom. The end pieces should be at an agle so they are about 16 1/2" wide at the top and taper out to about 19" at the bottom. Sort of like a triangle with the top cut off.

If you have a serger you will want to finish the edges of all of the pieces. If you do not have a serger you can leave them raw, or do a narrow hem (fold over about 1/4" and then fold over again 1/4" and stitch) to make the inside neat. 

Take your 'A' pieces and make a casing at the bottom big enough to feed the hooping through (about 3/4") Stitch. Do this for both 'A' pieces.
Then take your 'B' Piece and stitch pieces 'A' to 'B' lengths together-wrong sides together taking up a 5/8" seam allowance. Press seam allowance open. You will then to make a hem on the 'A' piece up the length to finish off the piece. Repeat for both pairs.

Then you will take your wide bias tape or 3/4" twill tape and create casings for the boning on piece 'A' The top casing should line up perfectly with the top edge of piece 'B' that has been sewn to it. (see Yellow portions of sketch for placement) The raw edges of each end of tape should be folded under to make the ends neat and tidy. The second casing should be exactly in the middle of the two casings (#1 is the one you just sewed down, and the third is the folded over fabric that formed a casing earlier). When you are stitching the tape down make sure to stitch close enough to the edge to allow the boning to have room enough to slide in.

You will then cut and place your boning into the casings. You will need wire cutters to cut the steel. The cut ends will be sharp and can poke through the material so they will need to be tipped off with the metal tips (available from where you get your boning) or they can be taped off with masking tape. You will cut the pieces as long as the casings minus 1" to allow for closure. Once all are cut and tipped, insert a "bone" into each casing. Repeat this for both sets of 'A' + 'B' joined pieces.

Next, you will need to stitch the other side of piece 'B' to piece 'A' wrong sides together to form a each pocket hoop. The way the boning will curve should make the piece look like the letter "D". Pin and sew this seam shut (it will be tricky because of the strength of the boning but it can be done.) Take up a 5/8" seam allowance, and then do a hem up the side of piece 'A' as was done earlier when the other side of 'B' was sewn on. Turn it right side out. Repeat this step so that you have two "D" shaped pocket hoops.

Finally, You will form a casing on the top edge of each piece 'A'. The casing should be about 1/2" (large enough to feed your cording or tape through to make a drawstring). Take your cotton cord, or bias tape and cut it about 12" longer than your waist measurement. Use a safety pin to feel the cord through the casings on the top of each pocket hoop. They should be we worn with each 'B' piece up against your hips and the 'A' part forming the curve of the "D". The drawstring cord is then tied in front to hold them in place.

Voila! You're Done!
 

To store they easily collapse flat like an accordian and can be kept in a drawer, bag or on a shelf.